Newsletter

Dog owners in New York may be worried for the safety of their pets following the discovery of a rabid raccoon in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill neighborhood on February 12. If you’re a resident of the area, keep reading to learn more about the situation and to find out what you can do to protect yourself and your companions.

While raccoons infected with the rabies disease have been common in other areas of New York in recent years, Dr. Sally Slavinski, assistant director of the New York City Department of Health’s Zoonotic, Influenza and Vector Borne Disease Unit, told New York’s Courier Life Publications that the finding in Brooklyn marks the borough’s first sighting in raccoons. While the agency does not yet know the extent of the infection in raccoons in Brooklyn, they are planning to enhance their surveillance of raccoons in the borough. “Right now, it’s an isolated incident,” she told the paper.

While other areas of New York City have seen more cases, it does not appear that raccoons that carry the rabies virus are all that common. According to CNN, health officials received 10 reports of rabid raccoons in Manhattan in 2009, eight of which were in December. In the five years from 2003 to 2008, only one confirmed case has been recorded. The last human case of the virus in New York City occurred in 1953.

New York City is taking control of the situation, according to WABC-TV. Starting in February 2010, wildlife experts began “humanely trapping” raccoons in various parks in the city. “The animals will be vaccinated, marked for identification, and released,” the television station reported. The process will be repeated in summer to vaccinate any raccoons born in the spring.

Raccoons are nocturnal animals, and the University of Texas at Austin’s Environmental Health and Safety department says that “although nocturnal animals are most active throughout the night, it is not an indication that something is necessarily wrong if seen out during the day.” However, the University says that it will be “fairly obvious” if a nocturnal animal is sick. Symptoms can vary but include slow or tame movements, excessive saliva or an apparent “foaming” at the mouth, and an attempt to bite at anything. Should you see an animal that appears to be sick, stay away and call your local animal control center or 311.

Prevention is the best method for ensuring your animal does not acquire the virus. New York State requires all domestic dogs, cats and ferrets to be vaccinated against rabies no later than four months after the pet’s date of birth, and in New York City, the deadline for vaccination is three months after the date of birth. When outside, keep your dog on a leash as often as possible. Please follow these guidelines to prevent your pet from being infected and also to stop the spread of the disease.

Cats are curious creatures by nature and it's not uncommon for even the laid-back indoor cat to dart outside into the wild given half a chance. A missing cat is an ordeal that many cat owners eventually will face, no matter whether your cat is an indoor-outdoor cat who wandered off or an indoor-only cat who managed to escape outside.

A missing cat can be a stressful, emotional situation for any pet owner. But there are a number of simple steps you can take to help bring your feline friend home quickly and safely.

—Microchips And ID Tags: Pet identification is a must, even if your cat is an indoor-only pet. Microchipping your cat and outfitting him or her with a sturdy collar and ID tag go a long way toward helping your pet return home safely.

—Start In Your Back Yard: Begin your search in your yard. A door left open even for just a few minutes is an invitation for your outdoor cat to go exploring. Indoor cats that do make it outside tend to stay close to home - it's not uncommon for a scared cat to hide under a deck, inside bushes and shrubbery or under a car.

—Search Everywhere: Cats are well-known for getting into tiny spaces that might seem impossible to reach. Exposed pipes, car engines, inside walls - if a cat can fit into a space, chances are he or she will try to explore it. A thorough search of your home and yard is essential.

—Leave Food And Water Outside: If your pet is nearby, food, water, and items with a familiar scent (toys, blankets, etc.) might help lure him or her back home. Leave these items outside the door of your home.

—Post Flyers: Post bright, easy-to-read flyers, with a picture of your cat and your contact information, around your neighborhood. Distribute flyers to your neighbors and post them in local convenience stores, community spaces and other heavily-traveled spots. You may also consider offering a reward. For your safety, do not include your name, address or a specific reward amount (this will deter potential scam artists). The more flyers you post, the better. Don't forget, in order to post photos of your cat, you need to have them available. If you don't already have a few good, recent photos of your pets, take them today.

—Ask Around: Ask your neighbors to be on the look-out for your cat. Call your town's animal control officer and ask nearby veterinary clinics to keep an eye out for cats matching your feline companion's description. Check with local animal shelters and rescue groups. Remember: the more people that are looking for your cat, the better the chances he or she will be found.

—Advertise: Flyers aren't the only way to get the word out about your missing pet. Post an ad on community websites like Craigslist. Many local newspapers also offer free "lost and found" ads and your town's website may have a "lost pets" section.

—Missing Pets Websites: There are many websites devoted to reuniting pet owners with missing pets. Websites like Petfinder.com, the Missing Pet Network, and LostAndFound.com offer free classified listings for lost and found pets. The lost and found listings on these websites are easy to search and a great way to inform a large audience about your missing pet.

It is important to remember that cats are safer when they're indoor-only pets. It may seem unfair to confine your cat inside, but cats allowed to roam outside are at an increased risk of exposure to infectious diseases and injury or accident. This is all in addition to the possibility that your cat may wander off or, even worse, be abducted or stolen. Don't let your cat's curiosity get the better of him or her - keep your feline friend inside.

Diabetic ketoacidosis, or DKA, is one of the most serious metabolic disorders seen in both human and veterinary medicine. As many as 5 to 10 percent of humans with DKA die from this condition. Death rates for dogs may be as high as 30 to 40 percent in some situations.

A severe complication of diabetes mellitus, DKA is characterized by an elevated concentration of blood sugar; the presence of substances called ketones in the urine and reduced concentrations of bicarbonate in the blood. Some dogs with DKA may be affected mildly, but the majority become seriously ill. DKA leads to death in many cases, but aggressive diagnostics and treatment can be life saving.

DKA often develops in dogs and cats that have a relative or absolute insulin deficiency. This can be due to an unrecognized case of diabetes mellitus or a low dose of insulin administered to a diabetic animal. The third and least common cause of DKA is the result of another illness or medication that impairs insulin action.

The most effective method of preventing DKA is having your pet examined by a veterinarian. If the pet is displaying any symptoms of diabetes, laboratory tests can be run and treatment can be initiated immediately.

Clinical symptoms of DKA include excessive drinking, excessive urination, increased or decreased appetite, weight loss, prostration and vomiting. Other symptoms sometimes associated with DKA include, neurological disorders, and acute kidney failure.

DKA is one of the most serious metabolic disorders seen in both human and veterinary medicine. Many patients die from it. However, patients can pull through a crisis successfully with aggressive diagnostics and appropriate treatment

The aggressiveness of treatment depends upon how sick the animal is. While pets with mild DKA may be successfully treated with intravenous fluids and insulin, those with severe manifestations of disease need more significant therapy. Even with appropriate and aggressive treatment, some animals develop secondary problems that can prove fatal.

Laboratory blood testing is important for diagnosing cases of diabetic ketoacidosis. Continuous blood testing is also needed in order to evaluate the effectiveness of treatment. In addition to a routine urinalysis, a urine culture is often performed on any dog with DKA, as urinary tract infections are very common complicating factors. X-rays of the chest and abdomen and sometimes abdominal ultrasound are needed in order to investigate underlying or associated factors, as well as other abnormalities that may require specific treatment.

The most important method for preventing DKA is recognition and careful treatment of a diabetic pet. Common symptoms of diabetes mellitus include increased thirst and urination, increased appetite and weight loss. Diabetic animals should be treated very carefully with steroids. Steroids can cause insulin resistance that leads to the development of DKA.

One of the best ways to strengthen the bond between you and your cat is to play games together. When you play with your cat, you become the most interesting object in his or her life. Not only is playtime fun for your cat, it's also a great way to get your cat to exercise, both mentally and physically.

Following are six games you can play with your cat. Not every feline will want to play every game on this list, but certainly there are at least a few games here that you and your cat will enjoy. While most of them require objects you may have around the house, there are also a number of toys available that provide the same fun. The key is to actually play with your cat in order to create a fun and lasting relationship with your cat while also keeping them trim and healthy.

Paw Hockey - Play this game in a room with hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors that has at least 10 square feet of free floor space. Break off an eight-inch square of aluminum foil and scrunch it up into a hockey puck shape. (Please remember that foil balls should always be thrown away at the end of the game. They are fine for games, but are not safe for unsupervised play.) Show your cat the puck and then flick it with your fingers so that it goes skittering across the floor. Your cat will then chase after the puck, batting it with his paws and making it scoot from one end of the room to the other. If your cat starts to lose interest in the game, pick up the puck and give it another flick.

Staircase Dash - With your cat at the top of the stairs and you at the bottom, fling a ping pong ball to the top of the staircase, against the side wall, one or two steps in front of where your cat is sitting. The ball bounces down the stairs and your cat should race down the stairs chasing after it. When the ball reaches the bottom of the stairs, probably with your cat just a step behind, fling the ball back up to the top of the staircase. Keep tossing the ball up the steps until your cat gets tired.

Bathtub Scurry - Put a ping pong ball in a clean, dry bathtub. Remove the bottles of shampoo and bars of soap and plug the drain so the ping pong ball doesn't get lodged there. Put your cat in the bathtub, show him the ping pong ball, and bounce the ball off the side of the bathtub. As the ball bounces around, your cat should chase after it. If the ball starts to slow down, give it a good roll off the side to get it moving again and to keep up your cat's interest.

Chase the Thing on the String - Get an aluminum foil ball, hollow plastic Whiffle ball, or catnip mouse and tie it to a three-foot piece of twine or heavy string. Pull the string along the floor in front of you, over the cat furniture, or up and down your staircase and let your cat chase after the object. Be sure to allow your cat to capture the object every once in awhile so he/she can feel like a successful predator.

Shadows on the Wall - Turn off the lights in the evening and shine a flashlight on a nearby wall. Dangle bouncy cat toys or other small objects in the light and move them back and forth so their shadows race up and down the wall. Your cat should leap up at the wall trying to catch the elusive prey.

In general, pets over the age of seven are considered "senior" pets. The following are a few suggestions to help ensure good health to your faithful companion.

As your pet approaches senior status, your veterinarian may recommend basic blood and urine tests as a baseline for measuring future changes. Regular blood testing can help identify diseases in their earliest and most treatable stages.

Note changes in your pet’s behavior or appearance. Treat simple medical problems, such as incessant ear scratching, immediately. A trip to the veterinarian can get problems under control early, before they become major problems requiring more extensive treatment.

Switch to a quality senior food that provides enhanced levels of key nutrients

Ask your veterinarian about a dental checkup and teeth cleaning. Follow the cleaning with recommended dental care at home.

Provide moderate exercise. This will deter anxiety-related behavior problems, help with weight control and keep muscles toned.

Talk with your veterinarian if your dog or cat tires easily or has trouble breathing.

Groom your senior pet at least once a week. Check for lumps, sores, parasites and foul-smelling ears or discharge. Older pets may need to he bathed with medicated or moisturizing shampoo.

Maintain a familiar routine and environment to minimize stress.

If your pet has not been spayed or neutered, ask your veterinarian about having this done. These procedures reduce the likelihood of mammary or prostate gland tumors.

As your veterinarian about a Senior Pet Health Examination. He or she will examine your pet and offer suggestions for maintaining an excellent quality of life.

An animal that has trouble going up or down the stairs, can't jump up on the furniture, and / or seems to be in constant pain may have a back problem

Disk problems are the most common back problems in dogs. The disk functions as a shock absorber between the vertebrae, commonly known as the bones of the back.

When these disks are injured or degenerate, they put pressure on the nerves, creating a "pinched nerve." Aside from a pinched nerve, the injury can interfere with nerve impulses that are sent down the spinal cord. Without a complete functioning nervous system, advanced cases can cause a wobbly gait, leading to paralysis in the hind limbs.

Dogs with short legs and long bodies are most affected by disk problems. Commonly affected breeds include dachshunds and basset hounds.

Basset Hound

Dachshund

Early detection is very important in the treatment of back problems. As soon as a problem is noticed, strict rest is recommended. Unlike humans, dogs don't lie on their backs and certainly don't do very well in traction. Strict rest, and particularly no jumping, is best for the animal.

In more pronounced cases, your veterinarian may recommend surgery in order to remove the affected disk. Back surgery is generally pretty expensive and there are risks that go with it. Back surgery is generally performed by a surgeon / specialist at a referral veterinary hospital.

The earlier the surgical procedure is done, the higher its success rate. Back injuries in dogs are like spinal cord injuries in people. Once paralysis sets in, the success rate declines rapidly, and some veterinarians elect not to take their patients to surgery.

Early detection and a veterinary examination are essential for quick recovery from a back injury. Depending upon the severity of the injury, most dogs recover quite well with medication, rest and lots of TLC. Dogs that have more complicated injuries may be candidates for more complicated back surgery.

1. What is the scientific word for a cat's whiskers?

A. Jactitatae
B. Oscillatae
C. Vibrissae
D. Quaverae

2. How many total whiskers does the average cat have coming from the 'whisker pad' (the puffy area between the top corners of your cat's mouth and the outer edges of his nose)?

A. 20
B. 24
C. 12
D. 16

3. How many times thicker than ordinary cat hairs are cat whiskers?

A. 2-3 times
B. 1-2 times
C. 3-4 times
D. 4-5 times

4. Whiskers are rooted very deep in the cat's face, in an area rich in nerves and blood vessels. Compared to cat hairs, how many times deeper in a cat's tissue are whiskers set?

A. 3 times
B. 4 times
C. 2 times
D. 5 times

5.Cat whiskers can give an indication of your cat's mood. When the whiskers are relaxed or pushed forward, which of the following is NOT how your cat feels?

A. happy
B. defensive
C. curious
D. content

6. It is okay to trim or cut your cat's whiskers.

A. True
B. False

7. Whiskers help the cat feel his way around. This is because whiskers are so sensitive that they can detect the slightest change in ...?

A. Air currents
B. Air speed
C. Air temperature
D. Air humidity

8.When can whiskers be a 'bother' to a cat?

A. When he is playing with string
B. When he sleeps on his side
C. When he tries to eat out of a bowl
D. When he is hunting

9.Cat whiskers fall out and are replaced.

A. True
B. False