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A feeling of rough sandpaper as you are licked by your cat is a reminder that its long, muscular tongue serves many functions, including grooming.

A Grooming Tool and More

A Cat's Tongue Serves Many Functions

A cat's ability to groom itself is the result of numerous knobs, called papillae, on the surface of a cat's tongue. Located at the tongue's center, the papillae form backward-facing hooks containing large amounts of keratin, the same material found in human fingernails. These hooks provide the abrasiveness a cat needs for self-grooming. The strength of these hooks also helps a cat hold food or struggle with prey.

A Cat's Tongue

Your Help is Needed

Although the abrasiveness of a cat's tongue helps it to clean itself and untangle its hair, your help is needed through regular grooming. As you groom your cat, you are removing loose and dead hair. Otherwise, a cat may ingest this hair and hair balls can form, which can cause vomiting and may cause impaction in the gastrointestinal tract. Longhaired cats need daily grooming; shorthaired cats should be groomed at least once a week.

A Matter of Taste

Studies show that the cat's sense of taste is keener than that of the dog. This acute sense of taste is the result of two sets of taste buds. Mushroom-shaped papillae at the tip and sides of the tongue hold some of the largest taste buds. A set of cup-shaped papillae are located at the back of the tongue. In addition to flavor, a cat's tongue reacts to the texture or mouthfeel of a particular food. This is one of the reasons dry cat foods come in a variety of shapes. The cat's tongue also reacts to temperature and shows a preference for foods at room temperature.

When Cats Lap it Up

A cat's tongue becomes spoon-shaped to enable it to lap liquids. Notice how its tongue laps under water in much the same manner as an elephant uses its trunk. It flicks its tongue quickly in and out of the water, swallowing after every third or fourth lap.

A cat's water intake will vary depending on the season of the year, activity and type of diet being fed. Cats consuming canned cat food diets will not drink as much water as those fed dry food. If, for some reason, a cat does not appear to be drinking enough water, more water can be added to the food Always keep fresh drinking water in a clean bowl available to your cat. Water is an essential ingredient and is involved in virtually every function of a cat's body.

Contributing To A Cat's Sense of Taste

Cats also have a highly developed sense of smell and they notice changes in their food. Some researchers suggest that this sense may stimulate their appetite or cause them to refuse to eat. A cat's appetite may be affected by many factors including noise, strange people, changes in routine and even feeding dishes washed with a strong detergent and not carefully rinsed.

However, if a cat refuses to eat for a period of two to three days, a trip to the veterinarian is in order. This continued food refusal may be a sign of illness.

Older cats have special health needs and may require more attention and care than younger kitties. The aging process varies between species - if you own a senior dog, your cat may not be considered a senior, even if they are the same age! You should consider your cat a senior around 10 years of age. As your cat ages, changes occur in his physical condition that warrant more frequent visits to the veterinarian. If medical problems are recognized and treated when they are first detected, the treatment may be easier for your cat and less costly for you. Twice-a-year wellness examinations are recommended in order to diagnose medical problems during the early stages.

A geriatric exam is more extensive than a simple check-up and includes a complete physical exam, oral and rectal examinations and a recording of body weight and body condition. The veterinarian will also examine your cat's ears, eyes and various internal organs. Some laboratory work may be done, including a complete blood count, urinalysis, fecal exam and perhaps endocrine blood tests and other complementary examinations. Establishing a base line is an added benefit and can ultimately help, should there be any changes, even small ones, to your cat's health.

As cats grow older, their organs may become less efficient and they may be less resistant to infections and other diseases. As a responsible cat owner, you want your cat to remain healthy and active for as long as possible. It is important to be aware of any condition that may warrant our attention.

General Tips for Your Aging Cat

Diet - There are several reasons why a special diet may be needed for an elderly cat. He or she may be less active than a younger kitty and, therefore, may require fewer calories. The digestive organs may become less efficient in digestion and absorption, and a highly digestible diet may be more appropriate. Phosphorus and protein content may need to be decreased if your cat has kidney problems. Under certain circumstances, the vitamin and mineral needs of an elderly cat may change as he or she ages. Some of the special senior feline diets have mineral and vitamin content carefully adjusted to help provide the appropriate balance for elderly pets, especially those with failing kidney or heart functions.

Joints - As your cat ages, joint pain and stiffness may develop. This may mean that your cat becomes less active and his or her energy level may decrease. Your cat may become tired more easily and want to nap more often. Muscle tone tends to reduce, which may further reduce your cat's ability to run, jump and climb. This decrease in muscle tone and exercise also contributes to the stiffening of joints.

Senses - Hearing, sight and smell can all become less acute with age and you may need to make allowances for these changes. Watch these changes. Unfortunately, hearing aids and contact lenses still have yet to be fit for cats! Be cognizant of indications of impaired sight, such as bumping into furniture, or loss of hearing, such as if your cat stops reacting to its name or familiar sounds. Eye infections, cataracts, decreased night vision, or even blindness is common; however, these can also be symptoms of a larger problem.

Dental - Older cats are more likely to develop tooth and gum conditions. If your cat has sore gums or loose teeth, he or she may be reluctant to eat, or it may cause food to drop out of his or her mouth. Gum disease not only leads to loss of teeth, but can also cause heart and kidney infections if bacteria enter the bloodstream through enflammed gums. Examine your cat's mouth regularly and ask us for advice if the teeth or gums do not look healthy.

Urinary - Urinary incontinence or inappropriate urination is common in an aging cat. Inappropriate urination may also be the result of a urinary tract disorder, prostate problem or symptomatic of a larger problem. Changes to your cat's litter or litter box location may also trigger urinary issues. Consult our veterinary staff if your cat suddenly becomes incontinent or begins to urinate more frequently.

Behavior - As your cat ages, his or her behavior may change significantly. You might interpret this as simple aging, but it actually might be due to a treatable geriatric disease like cognitive dysfunction. Some typical signs include confusion, disorientation, decreased activity, changes in the sleep/wake cycle, loss of litter box training, or signs which suggest a decrease in your cat's interest in, or ability to interact with, his or her environment or with you.

Kidneys - Excessive thirst and frequent or uncontrolled urination are often signs of kidney problems or diabetes. Since the kidneys process and eliminate waste products into the urine, it is important that these organs remain healthy. If your cat's kidneys are not functioning properly, your vet may recommend a diet specially designed for kidney problems. These diets contain a low phosphorus level, to slow down the progression of the disease, and a lower protein level to reduce the build up of harmful waste products in the blood.

Coat - As cats get older, their temperature sensitivity increases because their coats are often poor and not as resistant to temperature changes. Tolerance of cold temperatures and wet conditions decreases, and the need for a dry, draft-free, sleeping area is a priority. If your cat does go outside, do not leave him or her outside for long periods of time in cold or wet weather. In hot and humid weather, use air conditioning and/or fans to help keep your cat cool.

Grooming - Provide regular grooming. This helps to remove dead hair and prevent hair balls that may cause vomiting or intestinal impaction. Grooming also gives you a chance to inspect your cat for parasites, skin disorders and unusual lumps or lesions that may require our attention. Besides the health benefits, many older cats enjoy the extra physical contact!

Even if your cat seems perfectly healthy, regular geriatric check-ups are important to manage many of the changes associated with aging. Cats over seven years of age should have a veterinary examination twice a year. A complete geriatric health maintenance program can provide a means to target age-related health problems, institute preventive health care measures, and detect any disorders early enough to provide appropriate medical treatment. Cats can be the most rewarding when they reach middle or old age; they know you, have a special routine, and have spent years as a companion to you. Maintaining the health of your aging kitty is a part of your mutually beneficial relationship and can provide both of you with many more years of love and companionship.

Stretching out, jumping up on two legs, rolling over for a belly rub - at first glance, those are all natural dog behaviors. But are they yoga poses, too? Some people and their canine companions think so. Yoga for dogs - also known as doga (pronounced DOH-ga) - is popping up everywhere, with yoga centers and fitness clubs across the United States and even in Japan offering yoga classes for people and their pooches.

The first doga class started in New York City in 2002. Yoga instructor Suzi Teitelman started incorporating her dog Coali into her regular yoga routine.

"As a yoga instructor and practitioner, I was often on my yoga mat, and Coali started to join me," Teitelman said. "Before long we were doing the poses together, and I was creating a new class. Coali and I started teaching Doga all over New York City in 2002, and now it is all over the world."

Teitelman now teaches doga in Florida and maintains a website to help spread the word about yoga for dogs. Since then, classes have sprung up from California and Texas to Maryland and New York. There's even a doga association in Japan.

Suzi Teitelman and Coali practice doga.

Dogs and yoga might seem at first an unlikely combination, but the two are a natural fit, in a way. One of the most basic yoga poses is "downward facing dog", after all. In doga, owners and their canine companions practice together; sometimes, an owner will help his or her pet get into a pose, while other times, the dog will become part of the owner's pose. For example, in the "chair pose", the dog stands on his or her hind legs with the front paws in the air while the owner supports the dog. In the "savasana relaxation" pose, a dog lies on his or her back and has his or her belly rubbed.

Okay, so that last one isn't very different than the usual tummy rub your dog gets while lying on the living room floor. But some doga classes also include light massage and acupressure for dogs, and the overall result is a lot of direct human-to-dog contact. Doga practitioners say it is more about bonding with your pet than exercising and increasing flexibility (though those are plusses). Sessions typically start with owner and dog sitting together, perfectly still, and breathing together. Doga teachers and practitioners have reported that a good doga session calms down hyper pets and greatly relaxes both pets and their people. Other benefits for dogs include better sleep and stronger muscles.

"You will find that both you and your pet become more peaceful, more loving, more connected to each other," Teitelman said. "The more you practice doga, the more you find that you need it and want to stretch and relax, and bond together with your pet. I find that many dogs become better behaved and listen more to their owners."

Suzi Teitelman and her dog Roxy bond through doga.

For novice dog yogis (dogis, perhaps?), Teitelman recommends starting out with a pose called the "sacred kneel." Teitelman describes it like this: "Sitting on your heels, have your dog sit and face you. Take a moment to connect with your dog through massage, positive words, and get into your long deep inhales and exhales. Allow the dog to feel you breathe and feel your calming energy. The dog picks up on your energy through your touch and breath, so stay peaceful through all the poses. Carefully move deeper into the pose by gently and lovingly lifting the paws of the dog into the air. Either hold their paws to help them balance, or place the dog's paws on your shoulders. Hold and breathe for 5-10 breaths."

Doga hasn't made to every yoga studio in the country yet, but for budding dogis and their people, there's the book "Doga: Yoga for Dogs", a handy introduction to dog yoga. Of course, you could always just watch what your dog does and follow his or her lead - they've been doing their own sort of yoga for years.

Across the country, more towns, cities and even states are targeting pit bulls, Rottweilers and other dog breeds under increasingly restrictive "dangerous dog" laws. In Minnesota, state lawmakers are hearing a number of proposals that would ban certain breeds in the state, including one bill that would make it illegal for residents to own a Rottweiler, Pit Bull, Chow Chow, Akita or wolf hybrid. Meanwhile, members of the Forsyth County Commission in North Carolina are studying possible regulations for "aggressive" breeds such as German shepherds, Rottweilers, Doberman Pinchers and pit bulls. Similar legislation has been proposed at the state level in Tennessee and Mississippi, and at the local and county level in Oregon, Alabama, Arkansas and other states, according to the American Dog Owners Association.

Breed-specific legislation (also known as BSL) proposals are becoming a common presence in statehouses and city halls across America. Such legislation usually follows on the heels of a much publicized dog attack, and lawmakers claim that targeting specific dog-breeds will help remove dangerous animals from the community. But the effectiveness of BSL in curbing attacks by dangerous dogs is unclear, and the policies that determine what happens to pet owners who share their homes with a "dangerous" breed" vary in each community.

According to an article by Linda S. Weiss with the Animal Legal and Historical Center, BSL "is not an effective approach for regulating dogs' behavior in communities." Weiss goes on to write that bans on specific breeds are little more than comfort legislation and "do not act to effectively regulate the behavior of any breed or of dogs and their owners collectively." Additionally, breed-specific bans routinely face constitutional challenges, with decisions varying from state to state. A 1989 decision by the Kansas Supreme Court upheld a ordinance regulating ownership of pit bulls within a municipality, while a Massachusetts court in 1989 found that a law targeting pit bull ownership was unconstitutionally vague, according to Weiss.

What happens to happens to pet owners who care for pit bulls and other targeted breeds once legislation is passed also varies. Most breed-specific ordinances and legislation have some sort of grandfather clause, allowing owners to keep their dogs, but preventing the purchase or breeding of other dogs in the targeted breed. However, enforcing these laws is difficult, costly and time consuming: according to Weiss, a breed-specific ordinance in Cincinnati, Ohio was overturned after the city began enforcing the ordinance, which lead to "gridlock in the animal control and court systems."

Meanwhile, organizations like the American Kennel Club and the American Dog Owners Association are vocally opposed to BSL. According to the AKC's position paper on BSL, "We support laws that establish a fair process by which specific dogs are identified as ‘dangerous' based on stated, measurable actions—The American Kennel Club strongly opposes any legislation that determines a dog to be 'dangerous' based on specific breeds or phenotypic classes of dogs." The AKC and the ADOA also maintain "legislation watch" web sites, where dog owners can track pet-related legislation. Click here to view the ACK legislative alert page. Click here to view the ADOA legislative update page.

Conversely, many states are proposing legislation that would prohibit insurance companies from denying home owners insurance coverage or unfairly increasing rates based on the breeds of dogs living at the home. In New Jersey, state Assemblyman Niel Cohen is sponsoring legislation that would prohibit insurers from basing policy coverage and costs on the basis of the breed of dog kept on the property.

"In most cases involving a 'dangerous breed,' the owner is the one responsible for teaching the dog its aggressive or dangerous behavior," Cohen said in a statement regarding the legislation.

The most important thing to remember in training a new puppy is this: puppies and dogs learn best by being praised when they do the right thing. They rarely learn by being punished when they do the wrong thing. House training is challenging, but can be made easier if you follow these basic dos and don'ts...and stick to them.

DO:
Keep in mind that a puppy is the equivalent of a human baby and has to eliminate frequently. Take the puppy out every two hours (by the clock) during normal waking hours, in addition to immediately after eating, waking and playing. It will also need to go out right before being bedded down for the night.

Pick the puppy up and take it to the same place each time. Praise and reward the puppy with a small treat immediately after it urinates or defecates in the designated place.

Allow the puppy to "go" several more times before bringing it in. Puppies don't have the ability to eliminate everything in their bladder and bowels on the first squat. If you bring it in prematurely, chances are you'll end up with an unwanted puddle or pile.

Make a loud noise to startle the puppy if you catch him in the act of eliminating in an improper place - this will make his body contract, and usually stop mid-stream - scoop him up and take him to the designated place to finish eliminating.

Thoroughly clean accident areas with a disinfectant and/or odor neutralizer.

Feed the puppy at regular intervals. This makes it much easier to regulate bowel movements and predict when it has to defecate.

Keep the puppy close to you when you are home. Confine it with a gate, or keep it on a leash that can be attached to your belt or slipped under the leg of a chair or table. This makes it easier to keep an eye on the puppy, and monitor when it has to go out.

Utilize crate training.

Be patient and consistent, and make your puppy feel like it is the best puppy in the world when it eliminates in the right place!

As important as it is to know the right things, it is equally important to know the wrong things to do for housebreaking your puppy. The "wrong" things not only hinder your house training efforts, but can cause permanent unwanted behavior. Remember, puppies and dogs learn by being praised when they do the right thing, not by being punished when they do the wrong thing.

Don't:
Reprimand or punish the puppy when it has an accident. Puppies don't have the ability to understand that they are "in trouble" because they went in the house. This only frightens your puppy and makes it think that the act of urinating or defecating in itself is bad.

Take the puppy over to it's "mess" and put his face in it or show it to him. This is meaningless to the puppy, and again only frightens or confuses it. Furthermore, their train of thought is very short, and it will not understand the message you are trying to send.

Put the puppy outside by itself to eliminate. If you are not there to praise it immediately after it goes, it will not learn that it is supposed to urinate and defecate outside. If you wait to reward it when it comes back in the house, it will think that coming back to the house is "good," not because it went to the bathroom outside. Remember, their train of thought is very short!

Have unrealistic expectations of your puppy. Puppies don't have the ability to "hold" their bladder and bowels for extended periods of time. On the average, during waking hours, they don't have the ability to hold for longer than three to four hours until they are six months old.

Bring the puppy in immediately after it goes. It takes several "squats" for them to eliminate everything in their bladder and bowels.

Feed irregularly or feed excessive amounts of treats. A treat only has to be the size of a pea, and should only be used to reward good behavior. When house training puppies, it is important that they associate urinating or defecating outside with the yummy treat that they are going to get. If treats are given "for free" then they don't develop the motivation to do the right thing.

Lose your temper, use corporal punishment, or loud verbal reprimands when the puppy slips up - because it will.

This is all part of the house training process. Your puppy's progress depends largely on your patience and consistency.

As the weather becomes increasing warmer, biting insects such as mosquitoes begin to surface. Mosquitoes are not only a nuisance, however; according to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, they are among the world’s leading cause of death and illness that could harm your pets and your family.

One of the most serious threats posed by mosquitoes is eastern equine encephalitis (EEE), a disease that affects both horses and humans. Transmitted when either is bit by a mosquito who has fed on an infected bird, EEE causes an inflammation of the brain. Although a dangerous disease, it is rare and the disease cannot be passed to humans from horses or from horses to humans. Horses do not carry enough of the virus in their bloodstream to re-infect mosquitoes, and horses can also not infect other horses.

EEE, as its name infers, is most common in the eastern part of the United States. Most states east of the Mississippi River have reported human cases of the disease, and many of these cases have occurred in states on the eastern seaboard that have large freshwater swamps. The states with the highest number of human cases are Florida, Massachusetts, New Jersey and Georgia. Only 221 cases were reported between 1964 and 2004.

In humans, the disease begins with the sudden onset of headache, high fever, chills and vomiting, according to the Centers for Disease Control (CDC), and it may then progress into disorientation, seizures or coma. In equines, signs of the virus include fever; a sleepy appearance; muscle twitches of the head, neck, shoulder and flank; and a weak, staggering gate, according to the Louisiana State University Agricultural Center. Horses with the disease are quickly unable to stand and most die within three days of becoming infected.

While there is a vaccine for horses, which should be given annually, no such preventative exists for humans. Your risk of contracting the disease is highest from June through September, when mosquitoes are most active. Once infected, the fatality rate for humans is nearly 35 percent, and for horses, it’s even higher: 75 to 90% of all horses infected by the virus die. To protect yourself, wear long sleeves and pants when outside during mosquito season, if possible, and use an insect repellant containing DEET (N,N-diethyl-3-methylbenzamide) or picaridin. As for your horses, vaccinate them for all types of encephalitis, including eastern equine encephalitis, western equine encephalitis, Japanese equine encephalitis and Venezuelan equine encephalitis.

The New York State Department of Health also recommends the following:

• Dispose of tin cans, plastic containers, ceramic pots or similar waterholding containers, turn over plastic wading pools and wheelbarrows when not in use and drill holes in the bottoms of recycling containers that are kept outdoors so that they do not collect water.
• Dispose of used tires (call your local landfill or Department of Public Works to find out how to dispose of them properly) as they can become mosquito habitats.
• Make sure roof gutters drain properly and clean clogged gutters in the spring and fall.
• Change the water in bird baths twice a week.
• Clean vegetation and debris from the edges of ponds.
• Clean and chlorinate swimming pools, outdoor saunas and hot tubs.
• Drain water from pool covers.

States have also begun to take steps to combat the disease. Many states have implemented mosquito control programs in which surveillance and pesticides are used to reduce mosquito population in heavily infested areas.

For more information about eastern equine encephalitis, visit the Centers for Disease Control at http://www.cdc.gov.

Health care costs are rising rapidly - not just for you, but also for your pet. Veterinary medical costs are on the rise and many treatment options once available only for humans can now be used on pets. This is great news for the health of your pet, but it may not be so great for your wallet. Specialized treatments, emergency surgeries and consultations with specialists are expensive and working large veterinary bills into an already tight budget can be difficult for many pet owners. However, there are many options for pet owners looking to budget for the care of their faithful companion.

When it comes to tackling a large veterinary bill, health care credit cards are an easy option for pet owners. CareCredit, the Wells Fargo and Citibank all offer credit cards that can be used to pay for your pet's health care. CareCredit was the first company to offer financing exclusively for veterinary care. CareCredit works just like a regular credit card, except that it can be used only for veterinary (and human) medical care. More than 100,000 veterinarians in the country accept CareCredit and CareCredit's website features a searchable list of veterinarians who take payment through CareCredit.

To use CareCredit, apply online at www.carecredit.com. Once you're approved, make an appointment for your pet with your veterinarian. When it's time to pay the bill, you can set up a CareCredit payment plan with your veterinarian. Payment plans can last anywhere from three to 18 months, with no interest; for higher treatment fees, 24 to 60 month payment plans can be set up with a fixed 11.9 percent interest rate. The average credit limit is $4,000.

Chase also offers a specialized credit card for health care costs. The ChaseHealthAdvance allows pet owners to set up no-interest payment plans spread out from three to 24 months. Longer financing periods (for 24 to 48 months) are available with an interest rate ranging from 0 to 11.99 percent. The credit limit for ChaseHealthAdvance ranges from $5,000 to $20,000.

Wells Fargo and Citibank also offer credit card financing options for veterinary care. The Wells Fargo Health Advantage Card and the Citi Health Card work much like CareCredit and can be used for both veterinary and human medical procedures.

The Citi Health Card offers three different payment plans: zero interest for three to 18 months; a budgeted 48-month plan at 12.96 percent interest and a regular credit plan at 21.98 variable interest. Wells Fargo offers similar payment plans that can be customized by your veterinarian.

Not all veterinarians accept health care credit cards. Before applying for a card, ask your veterinarian which payment plans he or she uses. It is also a good idea to find out if veterinary emergency clinics in your area accept health care credit cards, as well. Adding another credit card to a growing stack of bills is a difficult choice - but far less difficult than choosing to forego an important procedure for your pet because of high costs.

Congratulations! Now that you have a new puppy, one of the most important things your puppy needs to learn is the difference between inside and outside. House training does not need to be difficult, but it does take time, patience, and consistency. Just like potty-training children, teaching your puppy where he can go to the bathroom and how to notify you of his need is an important part of pet ownership.

Housebreaking means teaching your puppy to go to the bathroom outside, not on paper or "puppy pads". Following these guidelines should help you house train your puppy easily and with minimal clean up. Keep in mind, however, that patience and routine are extremely important for your puppy to learn in a timely manner.

• Take your puppy to the same area every time. Choose an accessible spot and your puppy will soon associate this area with doing his "business" as be begins to recognize his scent from previous trips.
• Use a prompt command such as "go potty" to help him associate this command with going to the bathroom. This comes in handy if it's cold or rainy.
• Stay with your puppy while he goes to the bathroom so you can praise him in the proper location. He soon learns to go in your presence and the appropriate area to do so.
• Praise him vocally or with a treat to show how pleased you are.
• Stick to a schedule! Initially you need to take your puppy out every 1-2 hours. This is a potty break only. Do not teach your puppy to associate play or exercise with going to the bathroom. This should be done later. As your puppy learns, you can extend the periods in between going outside.
• Keep your pup on a routine food and water schedule. Most puppies need to go out within an hour after eating. Offer food two to three times daily at the same time each day. By establishing a routine, your puppy not only learns where it is appropriate but when it is appropriate to relieve himself.

Keep in mind that even if you follow these guidelines to the letter, your puppy is inevitably going to leave a present for you somewhere in the house. How you handle these mistakes is important. The number one mistake owners make is to correct the puppy after the fact. Even if only a few seconds have passed since your puppy's accident, it is useless to discipline, as your pup is not going to understand. Only if you catch your pup in the act of having an accident should you reprimand him. A loud NO and a quick trip to his designated area, followed by praise for completion of his potty break outside, is the best method. Until your puppy is 100 percent housebroken for at least two weeks, you should ALWAYS be watching him when loose. Make sure you clean the mess and the area well in order to remove any odor. It is preferable to use an odor-neutralizing product that can be purchased from a pet product supplier.

Remember that all puppies learn at their own speed. Mistakes definitely happen. Too much punishment and/or inappropriate punishment is going to thwart your success. Positive reinforcement is integral to teaching your puppy to eliminate outside. With patience and consistency your puppy can soon be a housetrained member of your family.

When cats play, they incorporate a variety of behaviors into their play. Aggressive play behavior is particularly common in young cats and in cats that live in one-cat households. Play provides young cats with opportunities to practice skills they would normally need for survival, such as pouncing, stalking, biting, scratching, and clawing. If humans play with a young kitten using their hands and/or feet instead of toys, the kitten is liable to learn that practicing these skills while playing with people is okay. In most cases, it is possible to teach your kitten or young adult cat that rough play is not acceptable behavior.

Since young cats and kittens need a lot of playtime, it is important to set up three or four consistent times during the day to initiate play with your cat. This helps her understand that she is not the one responsible for initiating play. This also helps to avoid unwanted pouncing at inappropriate or inconvenient times.

One way kittens play is by grabbing each other with both front feet, biting each other and kicking with their back feet. This is also a way kittens try to play with hands and feet if being waved in front of them. It is very important to avoid using any part of your body, like fingers or toes. Redirect your cat's aggressive play behavior onto acceptable objects like toys. It may take some trial and error to find the toy that works best with your kitten so make sure you try a variety.

Often, discouraging unacceptable behavior is the only avenue that is available. You need to set the rules for your kitten's behavior and your family and friends should reinforce these rules. Your kitten can't be expected to learn to differentiate between people in terms of when it's okay for rough play and when it is not.

• Use aversion techniques to discourage your kitten from nipping or biting. You can either use a squirt bottle filled with water or a can of pressurized air to squirt your kitten when she becomes rough. To use this technique effectively, you always need to have the spray bottle or can handy. Remember that aversion techniques only works if you offer your kitten an acceptable alternative.
• Redirect the behavior. After you startle your kitten with the air or water, IMMEDIATELY offer her a toy to wrestle with or to chase. This will encourage her to direct her rough play onto a toy instead of a person. It is recommended that you keep a stash of toys hidden in each room specifically for this purpose.
• Withdraw attention when your kitten starts to play too rough. If the distraction and redirection techniques don't seem to be working, the most drastic thing you can do to discourage your cat from rough play is to withdraw all attention. Since she wants to play with you, she is going to figure out how far she can go; however, you keep this limit consistent. The best way to withdraw your attention is to walk into another room and close the door long enough for her to calm down. If you pick her up to put her in another room, you're rewarding her by touching her. You should be the one to leave the room.

PLEASE NOTE: None of these methods are very effective unless you also give your kitten acceptable outlets for her energy. You need to play with her regularly using appropriate toys.

Punishing your kitten for rough play by tapping, flicking or hitting are almost always guaranteed to backfire. Your kitten could become afraid of your hands or she could interpret those flicks as playful moves and play more aggressively. Picking up your kitten to put her into a "timeout" could possibly reinforce her behavior because she probably would enjoy the physical contact of being picked up. By the time you get her to the timeout room and close the door, she has probably already forgotten what she did to be put in that situation.

If you find that none of these suggestions work and your kitten's play increases in aggression or becomes unpredictable, it can be best to seek help from a behavior specialist. Kittens can bite or scratch through the skin, and abuse by your cat is not conducive to a caring and mutually beneficial relationship.

Domesticated dogs are most likely descendants of wolves. Many behaviors naturally exhibited by dogs are reflections of wolf-like ancestry, rooted in instincts thousands of years old. Some of these behaviors are at odds with the wishes of the dog owner, who wants a domesticated companion that responds to human cues. Understanding the natural basis of canine behavior can be the best place to start a successful human-animal relationship.

Social Behavior: Dogs retain some of the basic behaviors of wolves, including living in relatively small social groups, following a leader, and exhibiting territorial protection. Dogs have relatively stable, hierarchical social structures that mediate interactions between group members and help them avoid regular aggressive confrontations. Complex body signaling of dominant and submissive postures is involved in the establishment and maintenance of these hierarchies. Therefore, in domestic life, it is important for humans to maintain a leadership role in the household.

It's Important To Socialize Your Dog To Avoid Aggressive Behaviors

Communication: Dogs use a combination of vocal, visual and olfactory cues to transmit a variety of messages from friendly greetings to threats. A vocalization should be evaluated in association with the dog's body language and the situation in which the vocalization is delivered. Visually, dogs use their body posture and expressions to relay messages. A dog that uses body postures to increase apparent size is usually trying to drive off another party. Conversely, dogs that use body postures to minimize their size are often encouraging approach. Olfactory cues play an important role in communication. The scents are often at levels undetectable by humans.

A Dog's Posture Is A Good Indicator Of The Message It Is Sending

Sexual Behavior: Intact female dogs will come into heat about every six months. During early estrus, the female dog becomes more playful and urinates more frequently. Non-neutered male dogs often exhibit behaviors such as urine marking, mounting, and roaming. Neutering often curtails these undesirable behaviors.

Chewing/Ingestive Behavior: It is normal for dogs to have a desire to chew on a variety of items, and they usually seek items to chew if they are not provided. Dog owners should provide their pets with numerous chew toys.

Dogs Naturally Love To Chew

Elimination Behavior: Dogs do not instinctively know to eliminate outdoors. They start to move away from their nesting area to eliminate when they are about three weeks of age and usually continue to avoid eliminating close to their sleeping and eating areas throughout life. At about eight weeks of age, puppies develop a preference for eliminating on a particular kind of surface (grass, dirt, concrete, etc). This desire often becomes a lifelong preference. Dogs may use urination to signal submission to a person or another animal. This is a normal communication behavior that usually is exhibited by young dogs. Dogs also may eliminate in situations of extreme fear.

There's no doubt pets are important family members, but some pet owners - and pet-related businesses - are going to great lengths to make sure their furry family members are involved in most any special occasion, from weddings to religious observances.

For some pet owners, that means including their pooch in the wedding party. According to a recent USA Today report, a growing number of pet owners are including their dogs in their wedding ceremonies. Sometimes, the dogs sit in only for wedding portraits, but in other cases, dogs have walked their people down the aisle or acted as four-legged ring bearers.

"Many people think of their pets as family members, and they wouldn't think of having a special day like this without that member," Celina Bojorquez told USA Today. Bojorquez co-owns Beverly Hills Mutt Club, a specialty boutique that supplies upscale threads for pampered pets, including tuxedos, chic dresses and even designer collars and leads. Bojorquez told USA Today her shop has fitted countless canines with the latest couture (everything from silk ties to a gold harness and leash) for their owner's big day.

A dog dressed up and ready for the big day!

Adding a dog to the already hectic environment of a large wedding may seem difficult (dogs are dogs, after all, and even the best behaved dog can act up suddenly), but pet owners who include their dogs in their nuptials say they wouldn't have it any other way. "The people I loved would be there, and there was no way Bowser wouldn't be," Kacyee English told USA Today. Bowser, an Australian shepherd, was the ring-bearer for English's wedding and delivered the ring with a wagging tail and no problems.

Including pets in major family activities isn't limited to big events like weddings. The New York Times recently reported on a growing trend in the pet food industry: kosher foods for dogs and cats. Evanger's Dog & Cat Food Company, an Illinois-based pet food company. Evanger's has sold kosher foods for dogs and cats since 2003. This past spring, they hosted a special "Passover Seder for Dogs" at a pet store in Chicago.

Why kosher food? While dogs and cats aren't tasked with keeping kosher, their owners are, and that can present problems during Passover. During the Passover week, kosher homes must be free of grains - which are often a major ingredient in most pet foods. In addition, many people who keep kosher year round believe that pet foods fall under prohibition of combining dairy and meat. Holly Sher, owner of Evanger's, got the idea for kosher pet food in 2002, after she saw a neighbor feeding her dog in the garage during Passover, since non-kosher food could not be in the house. Evanger's offers thirty varieties of dog and cat foods that have been certified as kosher by the Chicago Rabbinical Council.

Elvis Best, a Parson Russell Terrier, reading his Arf-Torah Portion at his Bark Mitzvah
(Photo courtesy of The Doctors Channel/Creative Commons License)

Some pet owners do more than just keep their pets kosher - "bark mitzvahs" for dogs have become a popular trend among Jewish pet owners. "Bark mitzvah" videos can be found on YouTube and some companies now offer tiny yarmulkes and prayer shawls for dogs - even more proof that family events once limited to humans are now going to the dogs.

1. What is the mother's first priority for her new kitten?

A. To smell it
B. To give it a bowl of food
C. To get it to feed
D. To get it breathing

2. As well as sustenance, what does a mother's milk pass on to her kittens?

A. Sense of his mother's smell
B. Immunity from diseases
C. Thicker fur
D. The substance which makes cat's tongues rough

3. There are 4 basic stages to a cat's development. The Neonatal Phase, the Socialisation Phase and the Adult Phase are three of them. What is the fourth?

A. Juvenile phase
B. Infantile phase
C. Youth phase
D. Childish phase

4. When do kittens' eyes open?

A. 2 months
B. 1st day
C. 1 to 3 weeks
D. 4 to 6 weeks

5.When does the kittens' hearing develop?

A. 5th week
B. In the womb
C. 2nd week
D. 1st day

6. Which week do the kittens' milk teeth start to appear?

A. Day 1
B. 3 months
C. Week 7
D. Week 3

7. What week does the mother begin to discourage kittens from suckling, thus starting weaning?

A. 1st day
B. 5 Weeks
C. 3 months
D. 10 weeks

8.Once kittens start interacting with other cats and humans, they begin to use body language. For example, pricked ears and tail held high mean that a cat or kitten is feeling friendly and approachable. What does it mean when a cat's or kitten's ears are flat against the head, the back is arched and the tail is completely erect?

A. The cat wants to eat
B. The cat is asleep
C. The cat is frightened
D. The cat is ready to fight

9.Kittens can purr.

A. Yes
B. No

10. What is the earliest date that a kitten should be brought home?

A. 8 Weeks
B. 4 Weeks
C. 2 Weeks
D. 6 Weeks

Quitting smoking can be difficult, but according to the results of a new study, pets may be the incentive some smokers need to kick the habit. A study conducted by the Henry Ford Health System's Center for Health Promotion and Disease Prevention found that smokers who own pets reported they would be more likely to quit if provided with information about the dangers of secondhand smoke for pets.

The study was based on a web-based survey of 3,293 pet owners. Among the survey respondents, 50% were either current smokers or lived with at least one smoker. While taking the survey, many of the smokers and non-smokers indicated they would be interested in receiving information about quitting smoking.

The results are good news, both for pets and pet owners trying to quit smoking. While the effects of secondhand smoke on humans are well known, studies have also found that secondhand smoke can cause health problems in pets. Lymphoma in cats and nasal and lung cancer in dogs have been linked to secondhand smoke. Additionally, secondhand smoke has been identified as a possible cause of allergic reactions in dogs, eye disease and respiratory problems in birds and oral carcinoma in cats, according to the Henry Ford Health System.

Most of all, the study provides further proof of how devoted pet owners are to their best friends. While pet owners who smoke may not think twice about their own health when lighting up, it's clear that many are thinking about their pet's health and taking that into consideration when they smoke.

Currently, about 63 percent of U.S. households (about 71.1 million homes) include a pet as a member of the family. About a fifth of all pet owners are current cigarette smokers.

If you are thinking of adding a loving and loyal canine companion to your family, you will want to consider many factors in selecting the type of animal which best suits your family and lifestyle. The time and effort you invest in making this decision is well worth it—your new family member will be a part of your life for the next 10 to 12 years, or more!

Once you and your family have agreed that the time is right to make a commitment, you will need to decide what kind of dog is right for you.

Where Do You Begin Your Search? - Your local animal shelter is a good place to start. It usually has a wide variety of puppies. Generally, these puppies receive careful medical exams and have already had initial vaccinations. Spaying or neutering is usually included in the adoption fee, and can be performed when the puppy reaches the correct age. Most shelters also have excellent support services, such as free behavioral counseling.

In addition to visiting your local shelter, you may wish to talk to local obedience training facilities, a groomer, reputable breeders and a practicing veterinarian to help you find that perfect puppy.

Consider Your Lifestyle - Breeds such as hunting or working dogs require more exercise than some smaller breeds and may crowd an apartment or small home. Do you have a fence to contain your new companion? What about grooming? Keep in mind that all dogs shed their hair coat at least twice a year in the spring and fall. Some breeds shed constantly and some breeds need to be groomed regularly by a professional.

Purebred vs. Mixed Breed - Any puppy or dog can make a great pet, no matter where it comes from. If the prospective owners take the time to properly socialize and train the puppy, then its parents should have no bearing on whether or not it is a good companion. If you still aren't sure, here is some further food for thought

• The Purebred Puppy - Each breed of puppy was bred with a specific purpose in mind. Knowing as much as you can about a breed will help you in making the right selection. Your local library or book store has books on specific breeds. Investigate the breeds of puppies you are most interested in to find out if this is the breed that will fit best into your family's lifestyle.
• The Mixed Breed Puppy - Mixed breed dogs are the most popular in America. They come in all shapes, sizes, coat styles, colors and personalities. As suggested earlier, your local shelter is an excellent source for finding your mutt. If you are simply looking for a loving companion, you need not look further than your local humane shelter.

Choosing the right puppy takes time. Owning a dog is a serious commitment and should be taken with reasonable consideration. A puppy requires just as much attention as a young child and deserves to be given a caring home. Whether you choose a purebred pup or a mix from the shelter, it is important to know that you are giving yourself a loving companion and forming a relationship that will last forever.

For anyone traveling outside the United States with pets:

• Call the appropriate embassy in Washington to confirm the entry requirements for your pet(s). Some embassies provide forms printed in English and in the host language for your veterinarian to complete. Some countries do not permit importation, or have long quarantine requirements.
• Check the requirements to see how close to departure the required veterinary examination, vaccinations and tests must be completed.
• Arrange with your veterinarian for required vaccinations and certificates.

Certification requirements vary from country to country. Some countries simply require the examining veterinarian to be licensed in the state of origin. In this case, the veterinarian's examination statement does not need USDA certification. Some countries accept a standard letterhead health certificate and rabies certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian and endorsed by the USDA. Other countries require that your pet be examined by a federally accredited veterinarian and that a United States Interstate and International Certificate for Health Examination for Small Animals (AHPIS Form 7001) be issued by the examining veterinarian and endorsed by the USDA. (Since August 1994, only a federally accredited veterinarian can sign this form.) Call the embassy to determine the exact requirements before making an appointment with a veterinarian. Also, check the airline, as there have been cases where a country does not require a certification but the airline does.

The timetable for obtaining examination statements and certifications can be very tight. Plan well in advance to be sure all paperwork is completed in time for your departure date. You may send your paperwork by mail or courier, along with a rabies certificate, the appropriate fee for service and a self-addressed stamped envelope or a pre-paid Federal Express envelope (if you are short of time) for return to you. Make sure that the veterinarian's name is legible and include a contact person with a daytime telephone number.

If you are planning to travel outside the US with your pet, you need to contact your local Veterinary Services office.

If you have a relatively uncomplicated plane flight, taking your pet along with you might be the best solution. Even if your pet is on the same flight as you, the appropriate documentation is still necessary. Ask your travel agent or call the airlines for price information.

If you are planning to ship your pet, reserve air space as early as possible. Be sure to schedule your pet's arrival on a weekday and not on a weekend, as it is usually necessary for animals to be cleared by a veterinarian or health inspector upon arrival.

Provide a sturdy, leak-proof crate (lined with absorbent material such as newspaper) that is large enough for the animal to stand, lie down, or turn around, but not so large that the animal can be battered around in rough weather. Most pet stores sell shipping crates in various sizes.

Pet Shipping Crate

SHIPPING OF PETS CHECKLIST

• Your pet should become acclimated to the crate by having practice sessions. Be sure the pet has a comfortable pad to lie on and a few familiar toys. A leash should also be included inside the crate.
• Even if your pet is microchipped, put identification tags that include an emergency phone number on your pet's collar.
• Print your name and destination address clearly on the shipping crate. Include your pet's name so that attendants can talk to him. If your pet has special needs or habits (bites or growls at strangers) include that information. You might want to list this information in other languages as well. In case your pet gets lost or needs to be identified, you should carry a photo with you.
• Feed your pet a very light meal about six hours before shipping. Give water up until two hours before departure. A water dish attached to the the crate should be provided. The water dish should be conveniently located so an attendant can provide water at stopovers without being bitten. Send dry food along if the trip is long. If you send canned food, fasten an opener and dish to the crate in a cloth or mesh bag with feeding instructions clearly marked on the crate.
• Do not tranquilize your pet without your veterinarian's approval. A tranquilized pet can injure himself more easily than a non-tranquilized animal.
• Exercise your pet just before shipping.
• If your pet is traveling with you, make sure you have a decent amount of time between connecting flights. This way, it's more likely that he is going to be transfered to your connecting flight.
• If there is a delay, the airline may kennel the pets. Some airlines have kennel facilities while other do not. State on your airway bill that your animal is to be taken to the animal port if there is a delay or stopover.
• Arrange to have your pet picked up immediately upon arrival. Airline facilities for pets may be limited or nonexistent.

With warmer weather approaching, plenty of pet owners are thinking of getting into shape before hitting the beach. But what about pets? Obesity is a growing problem among both cats and dogs. And much like humans, too many extra pounds can have far-reaching consequences for our animal companions. In this report from the Veterinary News Network, Dr. Jim Humphries discusses the health problems that can occur if your pet is overweight and shares tips on how you can get your pet's weight under control.